Here is a simple way to choose, plus a look at the most common chew types and the ones vets say to skip.

A Quick Checklist

• Not too hard. You should be able to dent it with your thumbnail.
• Not too small. It should be too big to fit entirely inside your dog’s mouth.
• Digestible. If a piece is swallowed, it should break down.
• Calorie-counted. Chews are food, and some are surprisingly rich.
• Supervised. Stay nearby and take the chew away when it gets small.

Step 1: Check the Hardness

Broken teeth are one of the most common chew injuries. Vets use two easy tests:

• The thumbnail test. Press your thumbnail into the chew. If it does not leave a mark, the chew is too hard. Dr. Lori Teller of the Texas A&M College of Veterinary Medicine recommends this test for nylon toys, and it works for edible chews too.
• The kneecap test. If you would not want to be hit on the knee with it, it is too hard for your dog’s teeth.

Antlers, hooves, real bones, and very hard nylon chews fail both tests.

Step 2: Pick the Right Size

Choose a chew that is longer than your dog’s muzzle and too large to swallow whole. When in doubt, go up a size. Once a chew is worn down small enough to swallow, take it away. That last piece is the one most likely to cause choking or a blockage.

Step 3: Count the Calories

VCA Animal Hospitals advises keeping treats to no more than 10% of a dog’s daily calories, and chews count toward that limit.

Some chews add up fast. A Tufts University study of bully sticks found 9 to 22 calories per inch. An average 6-inch stick had about 88 calories, which is roughly 30% of a 10-pound dog’s daily needs. For a small dog, that means a short session or a smaller chew, and a little less food at dinner.

Common Chew Treats Compared

For more detail, see our guides to dental chews for dogs and yak cheese chews.

Chews to Avoid

• Cooked bones. They can splinter and cause mouth injuries, blockages, or punctures.
• Antlers and hooves. These are hard enough to crack teeth.
• Processed “bone treats.” The FDA has warned owners about these after reports of illness in dogs.
• Very hard nylon or plastic chews. If your thumbnail cannot dent it, skip it.
• Anything small enough to swallow whole.

If you still want to offer a bone, read how to choose safe dog bones first.

Match the Chew to Your Dog

• Puppies: baby teeth are fragile. Stick to softer chews made for puppies, and ask your vet when to move up.
• Power chewers: pick larger sizes and avoid anything brittle. Dogs that try to swallow chunks do better with a stuffed rubber toy than an edible chew.
• Small dogs: watch calories closely and choose thin, short chews.
• Seniors and dogs with dental disease: go softer, and ask your vet what is safe.
• Dogs with food allergies or sensitive stomachs: choose single-ingredient chews and check the protein source.

Chew Time Safety

• Stay in the room while your dog chews.
• Keep sessions short at first, and offer fresh water.
• In homes with more than one dog, separate them so no one gulps a chew to guard it.
• Wash your hands after handling animal-based chews.
• Throw away chews that are small, sharp, or slimy.

Call your vet right away if your dog is gagging, drooling heavily, vomiting, straining to pass stool, has a swollen belly, or seems to be in pain after a chew.

Bottom Line

Use the thumbnail test, size up, count the calories, and stay close while your dog chews. For most dogs, a VOHC-accepted dental chew or a digestible single-ingredient chew in the right size is a safer pick than bones, antlers, or hooves.

This article is for general information only and is not a substitute for veterinary advice. If your dog has dental problems, a sensitive stomach, or a history of swallowing things, ask your veterinarian which chews are safe.

Milo is a cheap filler that birds often forgo for something more appealing, making this recipe more likely to keep birds engaged with eating their meal.

No Husks

Wild bird seeds deposited onto soil typically undergo imbibition when placed in moist environments; this means the seed absorbs water from its surrounding environment and starts its journey towards germinating.

As a result, many bargain mixtures will contain seeds like sorghum that sprout and produce unsightly piles of waste seed debris or sprouted weeds in your garden, inviting vermin and insects into your space. These abandoned seeds could also attract unwanted vermin.

Our no grow blends offer high energy mixes that will attract year-round visiting birds without creating any mess or risking weed growth underneath your feeder. All seeds in these blends have been de-husked, cut or heat treated in order to stop germinated seeds from germinating, meaning more efficient bird foraging, while helping maintain a clean patio or lawn below your feeding station.

No Germinating Seeds

Under certain conditions, discarded husks from standard bird seed mixes may sprout into unsightly weeds that detract from birds while providing sustenance for vermin such as rats or mice.

Feed your birds no-growth bird mix that contains seeds that have been dehusked to prevent germinating and avoid creating an unsightly mess or encouraging weed growth underneath your feeder. This solution should help eliminate messiness while simultaneously stopping any potential for weed development under your feeder.

This high energy mix of hulled sunflower seeds and shelled peanuts features added calcium for birds, making it 100% edible and ideal for drawing wild birds to your yard. Plus, its use will eliminate messy piles of seed husks or seed-bred weeds which often accumulate under standard bird feeders!

No Weeds

Wild bird seeds that fall to the ground absorb water through absorption, increasing metabolic activity and sprouting roots; this process is called germination. Ordinary bird seed mixes often include high percentages of sorghum that goes uneaten by bird feeder visitors and can accumulate beneath your feeder as waste seed piles.

Unsightly piles of wasted seed can attract rodents and other uninvited visitors. A high quality no grow mix should not include seeds like sorghum that could attract unwanted pests; it should instead contain sunflower hearts, hulled millet, shelled peanuts and calcium supplements for maximum effectiveness.

These blends contain no wheat-containing ingredients, eliminating the risk of sprouting seeds being left behind on the ground and thus reducing weed growth in your garden. It is an ideal combination for both birds and gardeners! Suitable for feeding year round from any standard feeder, ground tray or bird table.

No Wheat

This wheat-free seed mixture ensures that fewer doves, pigeons and crows compete for your feeder space with finches and tits. Instead, this mix features black sunflower seeds, millet, and other nutritious ingredients designed to attract songbirds of smaller species.

Dehusking ensures less mess in your garden and no weed growth. Seed husks left behind after birds feed can create unsightly piles that attract rats or vermin, or, under certain conditions, even sprout.

Our no grow mix was specifically created to alleviate this issue using seeds that have been treated to prevent germination through cracking or heat treatment, which damages the endosperm, which triggers germination in seeds. As a result, these seeds won’t germinate, remaining dormant but still providing abundant nutrition to songbirds.

That makes it different from dry-climate tortoises such as sulcatas, which live mostly on grass and hay. Feeding a forest tortoise like a desert tortoise is one of the most common mistakes new keepers make.

Meet the Asian Forest Tortoise

This species comes from humid forests in Malaysia, Myanmar, Thailand, Sumatra, and Borneo. It is the largest tortoise in mainland Asia. Adults can reach about two feet long and may weigh 70 to 100 pounds.

In the wild it eats very little grass. It browses on broadleaf plants on the forest floor and will also eat invertebrates and carrion when it finds them. A good captive diet copies that pattern.

Other tortoises from Malaysia, such as the elongated tortoise and the impressed tortoise, have their own needs. If you are not sure which species you have, ask a reptile vet to identify it before you settle on a diet.

What to Feed a Malaysian Tortoise

Leafy greens: the base of the diet

• Collard greens
• Mustard greens
• Turnip greens
• Dandelion greens
• Kale and leaf lettuce, as part of a mix
• Safe, unsprayed weeds such as clover and plantain

Rotate several greens rather than feeding the same one every day. See our list of tortoise food plants for more ideas, and read whether tortoises can eat spinach before adding high-oxalate greens.

Vegetables

• Squash and pumpkin
• Yams and sweet potato
• Spineless cactus pads (opuntia)
• Cauliflower, in small amounts

Fruit

Forest tortoises handle fruit better than grassland species, but it should still be a small part of the menu. Berries and melon are good choices. Skip citrus.

Animal protein, in moderation

Asian forest tortoises eat more protein than strict grazing tortoises do. Earthworms are a natural choice, and mealworms or crickets also work. Keep protein to a small, occasional part of the diet. Too much can contribute to shell and growth problems.

Commercial tortoise pellets

A quality tortoise pellet can round out the diet and is handy when fresh greens are short. Moisten the pellets and mix them with greens. Use them as a supplement, not the whole diet.

How Often to Feed

• Hatchlings and juveniles: offer fresh food daily.
• Adults: feed at least three times a week, and more often if needed to hold a healthy weight.

Offer food on a flat dish or tile rather than directly on the substrate. Remove leftovers the same day, because food spoils quickly in a warm, humid enclosure.

These tortoises often get more active and hungry after rain or a heavy misting. If yours is a reluctant eater, try feeding right after you mist the enclosure.

Calcium and Supplements

Most keepers dust food with a calcium supplement and use a reptile multivitamin from time to time. How much and how often depends on your tortoise’s age, diet, and access to natural sunlight or UVB lighting. Ask your reptile vet for a schedule that fits your setup.

Water and Humidity Matter Too

Diet only works when the environment is right. This is a forest species that needs:

• High humidity, around 80%, with good airflow
• Moderate warmth: a basking area near 85°F and a cooler end near 70°F
• A shallow water dish large enough to soak in, cleaned daily

A tortoise kept too hot and dry may stop eating, no matter how good the food is.

Foods to Avoid

• Citrus fruit
• Bread, pasta, dairy, and other human food
• Dog or cat food as a regular protein source
• Plants treated with pesticides or fertilizer
• Large amounts of grass hay, which suits grazing species better than this one
• Too much fruit, which can upset digestion

Bottom Line

Feed a Malaysian (Asian forest) tortoise a rotating mix of leafy greens and vegetables, with a little fruit and occasional animal protein such as earthworms. Offer food at least three times a week for adults and daily for young tortoises, add calcium as your vet advises, and keep the enclosure humid. Our guide to forest tortoise food covers related species.

This article is general information, not veterinary advice. If your tortoise stops eating, has swollen eyes, or develops a soft or misshapen shell, contact a reptile vet.

Instead of waving treats above your dog’s head, try holding them close to chest level instead. This may help decrease any jumping behavior or accidental nibbles.

Training Tips

How you present and distribute dog treats during training can have a dramatic effect on its success, which is why we provide various options for treat packaging; including traction spikes for walking over ice and snow, treats in tubes that can be squeezed with gloves on or mittens on, and treat scatters you can throw on the ground without taking off paws!

Expert Tip: The speed with which you deliver treats can have a dramatic effect on training your pup. Delays or miscommunication between treat deliveries can confuse their brain as to what was just rewarded; for example, if you want them to move their feet forward after performing a jump, ensure the treats arrive directly in front of them!

Safety Tips

Many dog treats feature rod- or tubular-shaped designs that could cause blockages in a pet’s throat, potentially leading to choking and accidents. Wider, flatter treat shapes are more effective at mitigating this risk and reducing accidents.

Delivery drivers must remain vigilant about their own safety when providing dog treats to customers. Food-aggressive dogs may attempt to charge or chase vehicles carrying treats containing treats for delivery – this could result in serious injury both to dog and human alike.

Wearing thick gloves and boots when interacting with agitated pets can reduce the likelihood of bites and other injuries, while pepper spray or using on-hand resources can lessen any risks from dog attacks. Food-grade packaging such as silicone treat tubes or baby food pouches makes holding soft treats without taking off gloves easier, while walking traction spikes provide another excellent tool to navigate slippery ground while still being able to hold and deliver treats without hassle.

Choosing the Right Treats

Treats are an ideal way to show your pup just how much you care! Use them during training sessions, rewards programs or just to give your furry pal something fun to munch on when feeling bored – and can even prevent destructive behavior like chewing furniture, toys and household objects!

Treats should never replace a healthy diet for your pup. Too many treats can lead to obesity and potentially result in health issues for their health.

Always read the label when purchasing treats for your pup to make sure they contain high-quality ingredients. Look for those made with natural rather than processed or artificial additives, as these will likely be better received. Avoid treats containing humectants like propylene glycol that keep treats moist and chewy as these can be dangerously high-calorie treats that cause dental issues, gastrointestinal distress and blockage in some dogs. Freeze dried treats tend to provide more nutritional density.

Shipping Tips

Shipping pet supplies is one of the greatest challenges of running an online business. In order to maximize customer satisfaction and minimize costs, effective shipping strategies are a necessity – this means minimizing shipping rates and delivery times while choosing suitable carriers, managing returns/exchanges efficiently, communicating with customers effectively and meeting international shipping regulations.

Before adding dog treats to your website, it is vitally important that you conduct shipping tests first. This is particularly pertinent if your offerings include perishable goods like decorated cakes or icing. When shipping frosted dog treats it’s ideal to use an icing that does not need refrigeration and dries hard quickly.

Your packages must also be cushioned sufficiently to withstand rough treatment during transit, since they will likely be jostled around and bumped against roads. It would also be wise to add “fragile” or “perishable” labels so recipients know it could contain delicate items and perish quickly! Finally, include the recipe so they can bake their own!

About 75% of the formula is insect, mainly black soldier fly larvae meal. That makes it a handy backup when live feeders run out, and a way to add variety for pets that will accept food that doesn’t move.

What Is in Repashy Grub Pie?

The main ingredient is cold-pressed black soldier fly larvae (BSFL) meal. Black soldier fly larvae are naturally higher in calcium than most feeder insects, which is one reason they are popular for reptiles.

The rest of the ingredient list includes:

• Gelling ingredients: seaweed meal, locust bean gum, and lecithin
• Calcium carbonate for extra calcium
• Plant extras: kelp, watermelon, rose hips, hibiscus, marigold, paprika, and turmeric
• Taurine, chelated minerals, and added vitamins, including vitamin D3

The label lists protein at around 40% or a little more, fat at roughly 10% to 12%, and calcium at about 1.4% to 1.5% in the dry powder. Retailers publish slightly different figures, so check the jar you buy for the current numbers.

Which Reptiles Can Eat It?

Repashy makes Grub Pie for insect-eating and omnivorous species, including:

• Bearded dragons
• Blue-tongued skinks and other skinks
• Leopard geckos
• Dwarf monitors such as ackies
• Insect-eating turtles
• Frogs, salamanders, and other amphibians

It is not designed for plant eaters. Tortoises, green iguanas, and other herbivores need a high-fiber, plant-based diet rather than an insect-based one.

We have separate guides on Grub Pie for bearded dragons and Grub Pie for leopard geckos if you keep one of those species.

How to Make Repashy Grub Pie

1. Bring water to a boil on the stove, in a kettle, or in the microwave.
2. Pour the water into a bowl and stir in the powder right away. Use 1 part powder to 2 to 3 parts water. Less water makes a firmer gel.
3. Pour the mix into a shallow dish or mold.
4. Let it cool at room temperature until it sets.
5. Cut the gel into cubes or strips sized for your pet. A good rule is no wider than the space between its eyes.

You can also use it before it sets. A thinner mix works as a slurry or paste, or as a gravy over other food.

How to Store It

• Powder: keep the jar sealed in a cool, dry place.
• Prepared gel: treat it like fresh food. Seal it and keep it in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
• Freezer: sealed gel keeps for up to six months. Freezing it in small portions makes thawing easier.
• In the enclosure: remove uneaten gel the same day, sooner in warm, humid setups, since it dries out and can spoil.

Feeding Tips

• Start small. Offer a cube or two and see whether your pet takes it.
• Add movement. Many lizards respond to motion. Wiggle a piece with feeding tongs to trigger a feeding response.
• Be patient. Some animals need several tries before they recognize gel as food. Leopard geckos in particular can be slow to accept it.
• Keep the variety. Repashy calls Grub Pie a meal replacement, but most keepers still rotate it with live, gut-loaded insects and, for omnivores like bearded dragons, fresh greens.
• Ask about supplements. Grub Pie already contains calcium and vitamin D3, so check with your reptile vet before adding more on the days you feed it.

Pros and Cons

Pros

• Mostly insect ingredients
• Calcium and vitamins built in
• No live insects to house or feed
• Stores well in the fridge or freezer
• Works as a gel, paste, or topper

Cons

• Has to be mixed with boiling water
• Strong smell that some owners dislike
• Some pets refuse food that doesn’t move
• Not suitable for herbivores

If you want a prepared food with no mixing at all, see our look at the Hikari bearded dragon diet, which comes as a ready-to-eat gel and a soakable pellet.

Bottom Line

Repashy Grub Pie is a convenient, insect-based gel food for insect-eating reptiles and amphibians. Mix 1 part powder with 2 to 3 parts boiling water, let it set, and store it in the fridge for up to two weeks. It is a useful part of the menu and a solid backup, but it works best alongside live insects and the fresh foods your species needs.

This article is general information, not veterinary advice. If your reptile stops eating or loses weight, contact a reptile vet.

Here’s why ice cubes are a bad snack, how to use cold safely, and what to watch for when the temperature climbs.

Why Guinea Pigs Shouldn’t Eat Ice Cubes

It’s hard on their teeth and mouth

A guinea pig’s teeth grow continuously and are worn down by chewing hay. Biting into rock-hard ice can chip or crack teeth, and a damaged tooth quickly leads to uneven wear, overgrowth and trouble eating. Very cold ice can also irritate the gums and tongue.

It can upset their digestion

Guinea pigs have a sensitive gut that relies on a steady flow of fiber. Sudden changes, including unusually cold food, can cause stomach upset. Frozen fruits and vegetables fall into the same category: skip them.

It doesn’t actually hydrate them better

Ice is just water. A guinea pig that’s hot needs easy access to drinkable cool water, not something it has to gnaw on.

Safe Ways to Use Ice to Keep Guinea Pigs Cool

Guinea pigs can’t sweat, and they start to struggle with heat at around 75–77°F (24–25°C). On warm days, cold is your friend as long as it’s used correctly:

• Frozen water bottle wrapped in a towel. Freeze a plastic bottle of water, wrap it in a thin towel or sock, and place it in the enclosure so your guinea pig can lie next to it.
• Ice cubes in the water bowl. Adding a few cubes to a water bowl keeps drinking water cool. Your guinea pig drinks the chilled water; it isn’t chewing the ice.
• Chill the water bottle. Wrap a cold pack around the outside of their hanging bottle, or refill it with fresh cold water a few times a day.
• Cool ceramic or marble tile. Pop a tile in the fridge for an hour and set it in the cage as a cool spot to lie on.
• Cool (not frozen) veggies. Rinse their usual leafy greens in cold water before serving. The extra water helps with hydration. Stick to normal portion sizes.

Other Ways to Beat the Heat

• Keep the enclosure out of direct sunlight and away from windows and hot rooms.
• Bring outdoor guinea pigs inside, or into deep shade, on hot days.
• Use a fan to move air around the room, but don’t point it directly at the cage.
• Always have fresh water available and check it more often in summer.
• Check twice a day for flystrike (flies laying eggs on soiled fur), which is more common in warm weather.

Signs of Heatstroke in Guinea Pigs

Heatstroke can become life-threatening quickly. Watch for:

• Lethargy, weakness or lying stretched out and unresponsive
• Panting or fast, shallow breathing
• Drooling or wet fur around the mouth
• Wobbling or trouble walking
• Seizures

If you spot these signs: move your guinea pig somewhere cool, gently dampen its fur with cool (not ice-cold) water or wrap it in a cool damp towel, offer water, and call your vet right away. Avoid ice or ice water on the body, because cooling too fast can send them into shock.

What About Frozen Treats?

It’s best to skip frozen treats entirely, including frozen fruit and anything like ice cream. Guinea pigs can’t digest dairy, and sugary foods should only be occasional, fresh, and in small amounts. Their everyday diet should be unlimited hay, a small serving of guinea pig pellets, and fresh vegetables with a source of vitamin C (like bell pepper), which they can’t make on their own.

The Bottom Line

Keep ice out of your guinea pig’s mouth and use it around them instead: a wrapped frozen bottle, chilled tiles, and ice in the water bowl. Those are simple, safe ways to keep them comfortable in the heat. If your guinea pig seems sluggish, is panting or drooling on a hot day, treat it as an emergency and call your vet.

For more on everyday feeding, see our guides to choosing the right hay for guinea pigs and foods that are toxic to guinea pigs.

Which type you pick depends on who lives at the bottom of your tank and how they eat. Here is how each one works and when to use it.

Why Bottom Feeders Need Their Own Food

A common myth says bottom feeders live on leftovers and algae. In a busy community tank, flakes are usually gone within seconds, and very little reaches the gravel. Fish that feed at the bottom can slowly go hungry even while the rest of the tank looks well fed.

Sinking food solves that problem. It is dense enough to pass the surface feeders and land where bottom-feeding tropical fish actually look for food.

1. Sinking Pellets and Granules

Pellets and granules are small, dense pieces that sink quickly or slowly depending on the formula. They are the everyday choice for most bottom dwellers.

• Best for: corydoras, loaches, small catfish, and shrimp.
• Slow-sinking granules also suit mid-water fish such as tetras and rasboras, which grab food as it drifts down.
• Tip: scatter them across the tank so every fish gets a share, and pick a size that fits your smallest fish’s mouth.

2. Wafers

Wafers are flat discs that soften in water but hold their shape, so fish can rasp at them over time instead of swallowing them whole. There are two main kinds:

• Algae wafers: mostly plant-based, made for plecos, otocinclus, and other algae eaters.
• Sinking wafers: higher in protein, made for corydoras, loaches, and other omnivores. Hikari Sinking Wafers, for example, list fish meal, krill meal, silkworm pupae, seaweed, and spirulina, with at least 36% protein.

Wafers are a good pick for shy or slow eaters because the food stays in one piece. If you keep small algae eaters, see our look at Hikari Mini Algae Wafers.

3. Tablets

Tablets are compressed discs that sink fast and break down sooner than wafers. Some can be pressed against the inside of the glass, which lets you watch your fish feed.

• Best for: groups of small bottom fish, such as corydoras and small loaches, that feed together.
• Watch out for: crumbling. Tablets fall apart faster than wafers, so feed sparingly to keep bits from rotting in the gravel.

4. Gel Food

Gel food comes as a powder that you mix with hot water. It sets into a firm gel that you cut into cubes or strips. The gel sinks and stays together for hours, which makes it ideal for grazers.

• Best for: plecos, otocinclus, shrimp, snails, and other fish that graze slowly.
• Good to know: Repashy is the best-known brand, with separate formulas for plant eaters and omnivores.
• Storage: follow the package directions. Prepared gel needs to be kept in the fridge and can be frozen in portions.

Sinking Fish Food Types at a Glance

How to Match the Food to Your Fish

• Corydoras and loaches: omnivores that need protein. Use sinking pellets, sinking wafers, or tablets. Frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp make a good occasional treat.
• Plecos and otocinclus: most are plant eaters. Use algae wafers, gel food, and blanched zucchini or cucumber. Diets vary by pleco species, so check what yours needs.
• Shrimp and snails: small pellets, pieces of wafer, or gel food.
• Tetras, rasboras, and other mid-water fish: slow-sinking granules. Neon tetras are mid-water feeders, not bottom feeders.

Not sure which fish you have at the bottom? Our guide to small bottom feeder tropical fish covers the common ones.

Feeding Tips for Sinking Food

• Feed at the right time. Many plecos and loaches are most active at night. Drop sinking food in just after the lights go out.
• Distract the surface feeders. Feed flakes at one end of the tank, then drop sinking food at the other end.
• Start small. Offer a little and see how much is eaten. Leftover food breaks down and pollutes the water.
• Remove leftovers. Take out uneaten wafers, gel, or vegetables before they foul the tank.
• Mix it up. Rotate two or three foods through the week for a more complete diet.
• Check their bellies. A healthy bottom feeder has a gently rounded belly, not a sunken one.

Bottom Line

Sinking pellets and granules are the daily staple for most bottom feeders. Wafers and gel food suit slow grazers like plecos, and tablets work well for groups of small catfish. Match the food to your fish’s natural diet, feed small amounts, and make sure the food actually reaches the bottom of the tank.

Organic starter-grower feed provides your chicks with 38 essential nutrients they require during growth, before transitioning them over to layer feed at about 18 weeks. Layer feed features our Oyster Strong System which slowly releases calcium and essential vitamins and minerals for egg formation.

Starter-Grower

Chicken feed is designed to meet the dietary requirements of baby chicks, including protein, carbohydrates, fats and vitamins and minerals. Most starter and grower rations contain 20-24% protein which meets these demands adequately.

This organically certified feed for poultry is non-GMO and non-GMO ingredients, making it the ideal choice for raising laying chickens, ducks, and geese from hatch to laying age (18-20 weeks). It provides optimal energy levels (18%), quality protein (18%), prebiotics, probiotics and probiotics for early chick development – available both crumble or pellet form.

This nutritious, complete feed for poultry is prepared using premium cracked corn and whole oats that are loaded with nutrients and carbohydrates, along with soybean meal which boasts plenty of proteins as well as fat-rich content. All these ingredients have been naturally fermented to release additional vitamins while making them more digestible to birds.

Layer

As soon as a hen reaches her laying stage, her diet must switch from starter feed to organic layer feed, providing more calcium and protein-rich nutrition that will support strong muscles while producing nutritious eggs.

Organic chicken feed is produced using ingredients grown without pesticides and fertilizers, such as oats, barley, soybean meal, sesame seed, molasses, fish meal, flaxseed meal maize and sustainably-grown wheat.

Organic laying feed comes in pellet or crumble form and offers equivalent nutrition. Your choice between them should ultimately come down to personal taste. In addition, organic chicken feed supplements such as chick grit and scratch grains may help encourage pecking, foraging and feeding instincts while aiding digestion of essential nutrients more quickly and molting supplements can speed recovery from this time-consuming process more rapidly so your flock can return to egg-laying activity more rapidly.

Rooster

Many chicken keepers keep roosters as part of their flock, feeding them layer feed that meets the nutritional requirements for egg-laying hens. This type of feed contains plenty of calcium to promote proper egg development while boasting 16% protein content. Some chicken owners worry that commercially available poultry food may not provide their adult roosters and non-laying chickens with all the essential nutrition. Purina has addressed these worries by developing a special food tailored specifically to meet these nutritional requirements of adult roosters and non-laying birds. Visit Argyle, TX today or browse online to view our selection of organic rooster feed. From pellets and crumbles containing equal nutrition, choose your choice depending on personal preference and limiting feed waste.

Molting

As soon as fall arrives and days get shorter, backyard chickens take their annual “molting vacation.” During this process, hens refresh old feathers while growing new ones in preparation for winter. A high-protein complete feed should be provided during this period to promote feather regrowth.

As your chickens undergo the process of molting, it’s essential to make them as comfortable as possible by limiting handling and giving them ample room inside their coop. Since molting can make your flock more vulnerable to infections and illnesses than usual, be sure to provide access to fresh water throughout the day.

Ideally, keep using starter-grower feed until your chicks start laying at around week 18; once that occurs, transition them over to our Organic Layer Crumbles with Oyster Strong System at 18 weeks of age – this feed provides optimal balances of protein, calcium and other key nutrients that will ensure Flock Strong layers.

These feeders fit seamlessly inside your hive and vary in capacity to prevent bees from drowning. Each has its own solution to keep the bees safe.

Entrance Feeders

Entrance feeders offer bees a convenient means of feeding when foraging options are scarce. They can either be installed outside the hive, or integrated into certain designs within it; both options allow bees access without disrupting their hives, making entrance feeders an appealing solution. Furthermore, their presence decreases disturbance to their colonies while remaining easy to monitor, making entrance feeders an appealing solution.

These feeders consist of a tray that fits inside the hive entrance and an inverted jar filled with syrup that is easy to refill quickly, monitor, and help deter robbers from attacking. Unfortunately, their exposed nature leaves it vulnerable against harsh elements, including freezing temperatures which may make refilling time less frequent and monitoring more effective.

Another version involves placing a wick in the jar to draw moisture from the air, helping prevent ice formation. Both types are suitable for use during hot weather and can also be used to provide pollen or sugar syrup mixture in addition to traditional feedings.

Hive Top Feeders

This feeder takes the place of one frame in your hive, protecting it from wind, rain and sun exposure. Our hive top feeder can be used to administer liquid feed or pollen substitute to your colonies when they require extra sustenance before winter sets in, when rearing brood or for any other reason that might necessitate medicating them.

Beekeepers in warmer climates may use it all year. Refilling this feeder requires opening your hive and potentially disrupting bees while also exposing yourself to robbers; however, you can equip this hive top feeder with a screened lid which restricts access to syrup and reduces drowning; making this inspection far less invasive than an entrance feeder which needs to be opened.

Frame Feeders

Frame feeders are an alternative form of hive top feeder that are placed within the colony instead of above it, making them suitable for rapid feeding in cooler temperatures or early feeding in spring. They offer more control than their hive-top counterparts when providing early or rapid food supplies to a colony.

They can hold large volumes of syrup and have an added feature that prevents bees from drowning: the cap and ladder system restricts which areas of the syrup container bees can access, helping prevent excessive drowning in cold temperatures while still allowing bees access to nectar if they fall in accidentally.

One disadvantage of this feeder type is its susceptibility to leaking and dripping onto colonies below, potentially freezing bees if this occurs during cold weather conditions.

Pail Feeders

Pail feeders are plastic buckets equipped with holes at their upper lip that bees can climb into to feed, making this type of feeder easy to monitor and refill. Though suitable for placement either inside or outside hives, pail feeders tend to encourage robbing activity and can even cause sugar syrup to freeze in cold weather conditions.

Frame feeders can provide an effective alternative for both inside and outside use. Constructed of rigid edges to help the bees gain traction when feeding, frame feeders offer superior durability over entrance or top feeders while offering solid perching surfaces to reduce robber attacks during feeding sessions. Unfortunately they can be more expensive.

Open Feeders

Feeding honey bees has always been a contentious issue in beekeeping, with new beekeepers often disfavoring open feeding as either strongly discouraged or outright prohibited.

Open feeders increase the risk of robbing, which occurs when bees from one colony invade another (usually weaker) hive to uncap and remove stored honey, leading to fighting between both colonies that eventually leads to their demise.

Some beekeepers rely on bucket feeders, hive top feeders or frame feeders as food sources for their bees, yet these devices are all open and vulnerable to being invaded by other insects such as ants, wasps and hornets that feed off sugar water sources. Such insects pose a great danger as they bring diseases into hives they visit while depriving the bees of natural sustenance sources.

Your vet will conduct a full physical exam, take an impression of the affected area using tape, and run other tests. They may recommend changes in diet or omega-3 fatty acid supplementation or anti-fungal medications as treatments for your pet’s condition.

Medicated Shampoos

Yeast infections can affect any area of skin, but they tend to crop up in areas with many folds and trapped moisture such as dog’s paws. Left untreated, these yeast overgrowths can lead to itching, flaking and discomfort for the patient.

Cleaning your pup’s paws regularly is one of the best ways to stop itchy, painful symptoms from ever appearing in the first place. Wipe down their paws after long walks or other vigorous activities so dirt, mud and debris don’t accumulate on their pads and prevent irritation and inflammation from building up.

Your veterinarian may suggest medicated shampoos with antifungal properties as another means of combatting yeast spores on your pup’s paws. These solutions may help relieve itching, odor and inflammation caused by yeast infections in their paws – providing immediate relief. These solutions should be administered regularly as directed.

Oral Medications

Treatments for yeast infections rely on medications to either kill the yeast directly, or stop its reproduction. They may come in the form of ointments, shampoos, sprays or lotions and should be administered according to a veterinarian’s advice.

Your veterinarian may also prescribe oral antifungal medication, such as fluconazole or itraconazole, in cases of more serious paw yeast infections. Medicated wash solutions containing ingredients like chlorhexidine and miconazole may also be beneficial in cleaning the affected area and eliminating unpleasant odors.

Yeast infections can be brought on by numerous factors, including allergies, prolonged use of steroids or antibiotics, hormonal disorders and even health conditions such as diabetes – each providing the perfect environment for Malassezia overgrowth that leads to yeast infections.

Home remedies like diluted vinegar may slow yeast growth, but they won’t eliminate or prevent further outbreaks. To truly treat a yeast infection in a pet, its underlying causes must be managed; that’s why it’s vital that you consult a qualified veterinarian when developing a treatment plan for them.

Topical Medications

Medication such as soaps, sprays, lotions and shampoos are often the first line of defense against yeast infections in your dog’s paws. Your veterinarian should provide specific instructions for using these treatments so that your pet gets maximum benefit from them. Be sure to follow them closely so your pet receives maximum advantage from them!

Malassezia Dermatitis, more commonly referred to as yeast infections, occurs when the balance between yeast and bacteria on the skin’s surface changes unexpectedly; specifically when non-standard strains of yeast start growing out of control. This condition often manifests itself more frequently among dogs who have heavy folds of skin which trap moisture allowing fungus to thrive and spread across their surface.

Other contributing factors could include an underactive immune system, food allergies, certain medical conditions like thyroid disease, prolonged use of steroids and antibiotics as well as external parasites. Your vet will likely recommend allergy testing or blood work in order to determine the source of infection in your pet.

Home Remedies

Yeast infections can affect any part of the body, but they’re most prevalent in areas with folds of skin or trapped moisture – making the paw pad the perfect place for yeast to proliferate out of control and cause itching and discomfort in your dog.

Home remedies to address dog paw yeast infections include medicated shampoos, oral medications and topical treatments. Your veterinarian may suggest medicated shampoos be applied directly to the affected area and left for 5-10 minutes before rinsing off completely. You may also receive prescription creams such as itraconazole, clotrimazole, ketoconazole or terbinafine that should be applied daily directly onto the skin.

Vinegar rinses may also be effective ways of altering the pH levels on skin to make it less appealing for yeast growth, and you can purchase this treatment from your veterinarian who will provide appropriate dilution instructions.