Idealistically, bees would have enough honey for survival through winter; however, this may not always be the case when nectar flow is low.
Most beekeepers prefer using a 1:1 syrup mixture of equal parts sugar and water; others may opt for two times as much sugar – known as 2:1 syrup – for their honeybees.
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Feeding a New Colony
Honey bees gather two types of food – nectar and pollen – both rich in carbohydrates. Additionally, they collect water and plant parts to make up propolis – an antimicrobial sealant which keeps their colony healthy.
New colonies that are introduced early in the spring (whether from nuclei or swarms) may require extra feedings of sugar solution (1 part sugar to 3 parts water). A few weeks of this could help get them started.
Many beekeepers utilize some form of feeder that fits at the entrance to their hive, often known as a Boardman style feeder, in order to allow their bees to take in syrup without leaving their home colony and prevent robbing from other colonies. Unfortunately, however, such feeders must be filled more often, leading to slower uptake from their bees.
Feeding an Established Colony
Honey bees rely heavily on carbohydrates for sustenance, providing energy to their colony. Honey bees transform glucose, fructose and sucrose sugars into products they use to produce brood or feed young bees; nectar and honey serve as primary sources of carbohydrates for honey bees.
After a dry summer or when nectar levels dip and nectar is no longer readily available, established colonies should often be fed. A fall feeding can also help prepare bees for winter by decreasing brood rearing activity and providing nutrition in preparation.
Well-established colonies generally have plenty of food stored away for winter. If an unexpected swarm or package was introduced late into its home hive, however, additional reserves may be necessary in order to survive without dying out prior to Christmas. Supplementary feedings could make all the difference for ensuring its continued existence and not dying off before then.
Feeding a New Package
Beekeepers typically order and install package bees into their hives in spring. Each package consists of a rectangular wooden box fitted with metal screening (similar to window screening) on two long sides for ventilation, yet still restricts bee movement within its confines. This allows plenty of airflow while simultaneously confining bees.
Each package contains a young queen in a small cage equipped with a candy plug on one end for her bees to feed on and become familiar with. In doing so, they become acclimated to her pheromones.
Once your bees arrive, it’s important to start providing them with sugar syrup (1 part sugar:1 part water). Doing this will allow the bees to quickly adjust to their new home in your top bar hive (top bar, Warre or Langstroth style), without them robbing each other before fully adapting – their population should increase with drawn comb built and brood and nectar produced over time.
Feeding a Colony in the Winter
Well-run colonies should require minimal supplemental feeding throughout winter; however, those without sufficient stores may struggle. Therefore, it’s crucial to monitor hive food supplies regularly.
Before cold weather arrives, hives should be fed sugar syrup (two parts granulated sugar to one part water by weight or volume) for feeding purposes. This can be accomplished either using a feeder or placing syrup directly in front of the hive; either method ensures that enough time passes so the syrup ripens properly so as to remain unpalatable to bees and mold-free.
Pollen patties provide additional protein supplements for bee colonies during wintertime, and are made by mixing granulated sugar with water to create a paste that can then be pressed into shapes before hardening. Another method involves providing sugar cakes (two parts granulated sugar to one part water by weight or volume) which are placed inside their respective hives for feeding purposes.
